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Travel Blog

Fremde Freunde / Walk between Dresden and Prague

Jessica Litwak

Tonight I saw a really innovative project that involved film, storytelling, political lecture, a full band and lots of food. It was a joint project by the Archa Theatre and the Staatsschauspiel Dresden. Two artists, one from Prague and the other from Dresden, took a walk together last August . Jiří Zeman and Tanja Krone met at the end of August and set off by foot from Dresden to Prague. They encountered people and places with powerful history on both sides of the Czech-German border.  They also encountered (in people they met along the way) many National fears about refugees. They shared commentary from locals in towns in both countries on the danger of loosening borders. On the basis of the conversations of both artists with local inhabitants, documentation of the landscape and chance meetings a multimedia documentary was created. The sharing was both intimate and huge- we discussed the content of a rolling news report on conditions of refugees and the prejudice against them, and also shared food from both sides of the border as well as food from Syria. we entered an elegant dinner table and the artists shared the conversation with several political, sociological, and psychological experts on the question of refugees, Czech–German relations and fear itself. While we listened and watched, we ate four courses of delicious food, and the commentary was aided by a talented band who played traditional music with a bluesy twist.


The Walk

Jessica Litwak

You meet people on the road. You share things with them that you wouldn’t necessarily tell people in your everyday local life. You see them by chance, make plans to see them the next day and soon you are kind of kinesthetically bound in this time and space to each other. You begin to be a homing device for one another and the things you witness and experience are filtered through each other. This person becomes your rootedness and your map. Your north star and your compass. Sometimes the connection becomes physical, or hints at potential romance, often it is purely platonic and based on a kind of communal survival in a strange land, something you both want, something you both need. Sometimes these relationships grow into life long intimacies. Sometimes they last only the amount of time you occupy the same geography. Sometimes you travel together, sometimes the entire love affair occurs in four days.

 

I had one of these four day platonic love affairs with a female Serbian theatre colleague in Istanbul when together we survived some horrific living conditions, a terrifying taxi ride when we were nearly abducted on some dark back streets, a controversial international peace conference, and a stolen hotel room where we had to pretend to be someone else and giggled all night. She and I kept choosing each other to eat, walk, drive and adventure with among the hundreds of people at the conference. We became fast and loyal friends in those four days. And although our paths have not crossed in the years since, and I do not know when we will see each other again, our endless conversations about theatre, life, love and politics is talk I will never forget.

I recently had another one of these four-day friendships. I met someone here in Prague who seemed immeasurably kind and was hugely traveled and well versed in every aspect of theatre and art for social change. He and I met for coffee and spent the next 9 hours talking. We were clearly kindred spirits. We met over the next three days saw theatre together, spoke about family, children, refugees, borders and the life long question of home and belonging. We spoke about being Jewish and on the last day I saw him we went to the Jewish Quarter to explore a shared heritage and our mixed feelings about prayer, tradition, Israel, holidays and passing on this ethnicity to future generations. I didn’t know it but during this exploration when my guard was down and my emotions high, my pockets were picked and I was robbed of phone, credit cards, money, identification and security.

Before I realized this, and hurriedly left him, never to say goodbye as I was swept off to police stations and then to an already planned evening with other theatre folks who lured me into delicious forgetfulness with wine and discourse. He left Prague early the next morning and I am not sure if we will ever speak or see each other again.

But before our friendship was broken off suddenly we had a long intense walk that I think I will always remember. We walked along the river in Prague past the parked boats and the glorious bridges. It was very cold and I had lent him my wool cap. I began to talk about my mother. I am not sure why. He kept asking and I kept talking. I told him the details of her mental illness, and her drug and alcohol addiction. I told of her beauty and her fierce charismatic charm. I told him about her wild generosity and her sudden cruelty. My fear and her fury. I told his that I didn’t see her for 17 years because she wouldn’t see me or meet my children. I told him how she lived in terrible poverty saving her money for me, which I was surprised with after her death from cancer. I told him of the visit when I brought my two daughters to finally meet her and she spoke in disjointed sentences, the cancer already in her brain. I told him that all she had were tattered clothes, a few pictures of the bridge over the Mississippi River her grandmother jumped off to kill herself. And my father’s book (a man she had divorced 40 years before) and the Complete Works of Shakespeare. I told him how I read to her from King Lear and how she interrupted me after hours of apparent confusion and said clearly “He wasn’t a very nice fellow was he?” I told him how we left her and she died days later. I told him how she refused a memorial service. How my daughters and I made a plaque with her favorite Bob Dylan lyrics on it and arranged with the U.S. Park Service to place it on a rock in the ancient burial grounds on North Manitou Island in Lake Michigan the place she spent her childhood summers, the place she loved most.

“Oh to dance beneath the diamond sky with one hand waving free”

I told him all this tears streaming down my face which perhaps he didn’t see as it was growing darker on the river path. He listened with heartfelt concentration. Just as I finished this deeply personal aria, moved by the names of dead Jews on a Czech synagogue wall, we reached the street where his hotel was and he said,” I will meet you in ten minutes.” But in ten minutes I had discovered that my life was temporarily but hugely altered by theft and I never got the chance to thank him for asking and listening and being such a good friend for four whole days.

Smooth Life

Jessica Litwak

Tonight I went to see a very intimate immersive theatre piece performed by Husam Abed with puppets made by his wife Reka Deak who also ran the film, slides and video. While he performed he also was cooking a delicious chicken and rice which he fed us at the end. Billed as "A non-traditional documentary and puppet performance for eight spectators with a culinary surprise at the end" the play requires the audience to engage with the issues, the performance and each other in a very authentic way. Unlike the highly structured small audience pieces in the festival, this one leaves room for improvisation and it creates a kind of genuine awkwardness- a little uncomfortable and therefor quite moving.  Palestinian Husam Abed was born and raised in a refugee camp in Jordan. In a charming and evocative way he tells the stories of his family in the context of the political events in his country over the past 30 years. The puppets are rough and whimsical and he and his wife are filled with warmth and kindness. Shukran.

Refugees #1

Jessica Litwak

I met today with Jiri Honzirek about collaborating on a piece about Syrian refugees. Jiri is a director who has tackled this subject in the Czech Republic, a country that has very mixed feelings about refugees. He and I spoke in depth about the difference between his country and my country in terms of the relationship to racism and the fear of refugees. His country doesn't have many refugees. His country has stayed very much the same for generations and immigration into this country does not happen in waves. My country is a nation made up of immigrants many of whom were once refugees. My grandparents were refugees from Eastern Europe. They came in one of the many waves. If we open our hearts and gates, another wave is coming. If fear and racism abound, the fearful will try to stop the tides, and still the ocean.

In this country there are very few Syrians. The refugees walk around this country heading to more open borders. Some people proclaim welcome, and open their mouths and minds to change, others are worried and want the doors to remain closed to refugees.  They are concerned about how the country would change, after they have worked hard to build and rebuild and build again after the revolution. They have not resolved the issues with Roma in this country and some don't feel ready to allow the face of the nation to take on different shades of color. Not to mention the tolerance for other religions, other practices. One man at an immersive theatre piece I attended had a disturbing question for me. We were teamed up by this theatrical game and so were sitting next to each other when the game was over and we were drinking wine and eating cake as a reward for exploring borders in a controlled performance experiment for two hours. He asked me this: "You travel all over the world. You see many things. You come from America. So don't you think it's better that we don't let the Syrian refugees into Czech Republic? We are not a racist country. But if we let them in, we will become racist. So is it not better to do something else to help them? Send money, and they can go somewhere else" I asked him where the refugees should go. He was very clear on this: "Australia" he said.

It is a difficult conversation and one everyone seems to be having (at least the awakened alternative theatre folk I have been encountering) All over Europe the question of borders is so much more acute than in the U.S. We have so few borders and we protect them with the power of the free and mighty, the stars and stripes of defense and security. We were hurt bad once, and we won't be hurt again. Somehow U.S. fear is about war and threat of death while Czech fear seems to be more about protecting tradition and threat of debilitating the nationhood. At the heart of both nations is fear.

Jiri and I talked about asking an audience to look into a mirror- a cultural mirror and a personal one. What is it to be a racist? We would ask them. What is the nature of your fear? Why do we feel under so much pressure? Where is the love?

Then I found this:

An internationally renowned all-woman, African-American a cappella ensemble: this is Sweet Honey in the Rock, whose name was derived from a song, based on Psalm 81:16, which tells of a land so rich that when rocks were cracked open, honey flowed from them.

Food

Jessica Litwak

I am eating very well in Prague even though I have limited cash to last me until I get to Rotterdam in three weeks and meet my dearest David Diamond who will bring me my credit card and new phone from the U.S. (after going Berlin and Brussels and London where I have friends to feed me). Today I bough a big sandwich which cost about 75 cents and was huge and delicious.

I had a wonderful dinner with Ewan Mclaren, Pavla Petrova, Barbora, Tomaz Zizka, and other theatre friends in Prague at a marvelous Georgian restaurant - there was eggplant with pomegranate seeds and soft flat bread with spinach and melted cheese and beef soup and delicious wine and such exciting conversation about art and politics and sex and revolution.

The next night I met Viktor and Beate for burgers and french fries and fantastic unfiltered Czech beer.

Thanksgiving

Jessica Litwak

Thanks for Emma, Sophie, Leo, Toby, Max, my dear friends, my heritage, my sense of humor, the work I am doing right now, the work I have done before, my students, and the ocean.
 

Quality Control

Jessica Litwak

Last night I saw this very moving and beautiful multi-dimensional , multi- media piece by Maria- Christina Hallwachs and Rimini Protocol. Fully paralyzed from the neck down she dances around the stage in a motorized wheel chair lighting up areas on the floor in playful games of tic tac toe while she tells the story of her life:

"I never asked WHY this happened to me. Why did I fly 20 years ago with my parents from Stuttgart to Crete to celebrate my graduation? Why in that empty resort did I jump head first into the shallow end of the pool? It was the last action that my body was able to make," says the protagonist. In her fascinating and captivating story, Maria-Cristina Hallwachs shows us that life is a miracle and a blessing. With her subtly ironic and playful production with artists of Rimini Protokoll she succeeds in banishing tough themes of sorrow and in emphasizing the depth of thought and the ease with which she is able to say yes to life.

This piece was in German with Czech subtitles. I didn't understand any other the words. But the photographs, the films, the games, the music, the chair itself, the nurse/helper that performed with her were all very moving. Especially moving though was this incredible woman who was able to find joy, mischief and hard core truth in each moment of a riveting performance.

The Jewish Quarter #2

Jessica Litwak

Photo by Rawpixel Ltd/iStock / Getty Images

Photo by Rawpixel Ltd/iStock / Getty Images

Walking through the Jewish Quarter for a second time with my friend Bob, going into all of these old synagogues and weeping for lost ancestors, I was jostled and paid no attention until I realized what was missing way too late.
Cell phone and wallet stolen. feeling very vulnerable in Prague tonight. I don't mind the money and the credit cards but I am shocked at how attached I was to the phone and its contacts and the pictures. Also feel so dumb for letting my pocket get picked. My New York hyper drive was out of batteries. I went to the police and reported it - they say there is not much they can do (I luckily had wonderful Barbora with me translating) apparently the Jewish Quarter where I was walking is a famous pickpocket hotspot.  They told me to go to the US Embassy.
Sitting at the US Embassy in Prague using the phone and the computer trying to find some money after being robbed- high high security getting in and out of this building - more body searches than one would imagine- but maybe I am naive- did I expect Bruce Springsteen and a free hamburger? there is - not much help from banks and phone companies not much warmth from the powers that be here or there - my problems are quite minor in the face of well...everything else in the world. i was feeling sad and lost and a little sorry for myself and I looked up to see a picture of my president and I feel a strange comfort in seeing Obama's face. It was the first warmth I felt from any eyes today. It is not patriotism, it's personal. I pray that in Jan 2017 when they change that picture in US Embassies all over the world I will be able to feel the same comfort. The same warmth. John Kerry is here too. Smiling. As if to say- Its OK Jessica. It's only money. It's only an iPhone. Am I getting a little sentimental? homesick? just plain nuts? I have been on hold with Bank of America for 45 minutes. I think I will hang up, say goodbye to the president and secretary of state and go back out into the Czech sunshine.
Next stop: Finding and buying a used phone and then a sim card.
This was a journey through the twisty streets of downtown Prague with a taxi driver who spoke little English but brought me to a place he knows to get a "cheap used cellphone". The woman who sold it to me negotiated the price of this used phone. It was hugely expensive but apparently much cheaper than the ones on the main street.
My temporary phone number is: 420777580763.The sim card is supposedly good for a month - but no one along the way spoke English so fingers crossed.
I am traveling on a tight budget because I won't get a credit card until a friend brings me one from the States on Dec 12- I will meet him at the end of my journey in Rotterdam.
My stupid bank has very weird policies.
I am now at a cafe using internet. Feeling grateful for connection. warm soup. hot coffee. my computer. Steve Jobs who invented my computer. The waitress and her sweet smile. The lamp on the table. The far away friends in my heart. The play I will see later. The privilege to have these kinds of catastrophes, without fear of incarceration, homelessness, and marginalization. I will find a warm bed tonight. I will listen to music and walk with two working legs to the beat of freedom. And I will be grateful for all of it.

 

Romance

Jessica Litwak

On my first night in Prague, totally jet lagged and thinking I had the flat to myself I had crashed out half naked an hour before I was awakened by the loud smashing outside my door.  I jumped up terrified and found a handsome drunk man who had just bumped into a few chairs. He spoke very loud in very little English. Struck by a kind of knee jerk politeness I threw a shawl around myself and went into the tiny hallway and made conversation. A famous actor (from an Eastern European country I won't mention) he had been given the keys after a long day of rehearsal at the same theatre where I was working. We spoke in sign language and broken English (my English was just as cracked as his) mostly about puppets. Bread and Puppet theatre. Puppets in general. We made puppets out of objects in the flat and began to have a pretty strange and fabulous conversation. We spoke about our daughters, our victories, our wreckage, our passions. There were some glitches: He said New York was "stupid", and when I told him I was Jewish he began to call me "Hannukah"... but still, we laughed about Shakespeare and when language failed us which it often did - we made faces at each other - he was very drunk and I was very jet lagged which seemed to level the field. At a certain point there was a kiss and then he tried to get very serious about sex, and I realized that my days of half asleep one night stands were a thing of the past and I had only known him a couple of hours and I had no idea of his name really or who he was except that he was clearly a talented actor and a gifted womanizer. AND since I have just recently broken off a long on and off sometimes heartbreaking relationship with a glorious infamous man not unlike this guy in terms of charismatic humor and self indulgent genius, it was clearly not a good idea to let this continue. But the minute I began to push him away, pull his hands and lips off me and push him into his rightful cubicle, he began to get emotionally involved, and also find more English. He told me that I was a "miracle" and asked me to come live with him in his small flat until he died. I accused him of not even remembering my name and he agreed that he had forgotten it, but promised to remember and when I was finally alone in my bed and he in his, he shouted for about 45 minutes from the other side of the thin wall, "I love you, Jessica!" I didn't sleep much.

And in the morning I tiptoed into the shower and out of the flat. He shouted after me "I will see you tonight". That's when I became worried. It wasn't that I was afraid he would force me to have sex the following night. It was that I was afraid I would - in my sleep deprived jet lagged state politely agree to it - and then maybe I'd fall in love with some crazy talented drunk and get swept up in a storm of unhealthy relatedness with someone who was potentially anti-Semitic and anti-American (although the latter was something I'd be willing to work through) when I was just beginning to find the ground away from my five years of earth shaky love sickness. SO instead of keeping it to myself I mentioned to my Czech colleague that I had been strangely surprised in the middle of the night by a drunk man and I thought that I was to have the flat to myself. She immediately set protective wheels in motion and got on her phone which lead to several other phone calls and finally a reprimand of the drunk actor. And he left Prague instead of returning to the flat. And although I was greatly relieved, I have since experienced a tiny bit of regret. Last night I found out that when accused of inappropriate behavior my suitor had cried "but she was enjoying herself, you know I am a gentleman." and the truth is this: I may of been enjoying myself at first, but then I wasn't. And he was drunk and aggressive and even though I was charmed by him I don't think any romance should be forced. And maybe what I learned about myself is this: I am ready for love but it has to come slowly and it has to be someone with whom I can imagine the long haul. I don't need to fill my travel blog with romantic conquests. Right?

But what if I passed up my soul mate? What if I am meant to be sharing his two room flat in a small Eastern European city? What if I am meant to be laughing and making faces and doing drunken puppet shows?

And what of love? Will there be more romance for me on this journey? Perhaps more sober love with less groping passionate proclamations? Or will I return to Toby empty handed?

The Velvet Revolution Revisited

Jessica Litwak

Here is my rather simplistic understanding of this history:

The 1989 Revolution was named “Velvet”  because of its peacefulness .  The revolution overthrew of the communist regime in 1989, and brought back democracy to Czechs after fifty years of Nazi occupation and communist rule. It started off on November 17 as a peaceful officially-sanctioned march in Prague to commemorate Czech student Jan Opletal, who died at the hands of Nazi occupierson the same day in 1939. The students in '89 began to shoutslogans against the communist regime. They walked to the grave of Jan Opletal calling for democratic reforms. They were stopped by police. The students offered flowers to the police shouting rhythmically: “We have bare hands” and singing songs. Then the police suddenly began to beat the young demonstrators with night sticks. Nearly 200 people were injured.  By November 20 an estimated half-million of peaceful protesters took to the streets. On November 28th the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia sensed its defeat and agreed to give up political power. On December 10th, Communist President Gustav Husak appointed the first largely non-communist government since 1948, and resigned. On December 19thVaclav Havel became the first president of a free Czechoslovakia since 1948. With Havel as president, the students ended their strike and the Velvet Revolution ended.

So this year on the 26th year anniversary of the November 17th event known as "student's day" demonstrators planned to meet at the spot of of 1989 events, the current president Milos Zemen stopped the students from gathering and instead many fascist groups came together to protest the arrival of Syrian refugees and to proclaim their conservative agenda. Police kept the students away. So they decided to gather instead onSunday November 22nd.

As I traveled on a tram towards the demonstration more and more people got on, until the tram was overcrowded with people. The streets were also packed with people - young and old- streaming towards the demonstration. This man carried a sign mocking the "small mouth" of the President.

Then a student organizer asked him to cover it. She told him that they wanted to keep the day peaceful so they were asking that all signs and chants be positive - towards change not provoking with insults, and he willingly covered the sign and continued marching.

The demonstrators carried flags and sang songs. There was three minutes of silence for those who suffered and gave their time and lives to the revolution. There were moments of silence for the refugees. There was a call to peaceful action. The speakers said " The last revolution was for shouting and fists in the air. This revolution is about action. Let's bring change to the world with our feet."


Audition for a Revolution

Jessica Litwak

Last night saw a really marvelous piece by Argentinean artist Lola Arias.
This participatory theatre performance will allow participants of Theatre Night to enter into the roles of different actors in a demonstration that took place on Wenceslas Square exactly 26 years ago to the day. November 21, 1989 is not just a symbolic date, but the day on which the revolutionary events moved a significant step forward. Václav Havel made his first public speech from the Melantrich balcony. Visitors to the Archa Theatre will be able to decide whether to become direct actors in the reconstruction of this historic moment or remain mere spectators.

This five-hour theatre event does not need to be seen from beginning to end; spectators may freely come and go. The performance is in Czech, Spanish and English.

It was an incredibly moving experience some of the student leaders who were present on the balcony on Nov. 21, 1989 were there and participated playing themselves. Then many young people participated who had never been in a demonstration. some were not born in '89. Other people had strong memories of the Velvet Revolution. A few people were strong activists in various movements, many had no relation to activism at all.

We watched a three step process on a split screen - 1.  the actors getting dressed and made up in costumes and make up in their chosen role (of one of the people who was there that night - people up on the balcony Havel and his compatriots as well as people in the crowd and the police. 2. the actors moving to the second screen and being interviewed by Lola and then finally stepping into a film or photograph from the actual night and reading (with direction) the speech and bring us back to the reality of that revolutionary night through the fantasy of present tense imaginations and embodiment.

She has done similar shows in Greece and Germany and Argentina. I spoke with her afterwards and we tried to imagine one demonstration or revolutionary day/event in the United States that could support such a theatre piece. I thought of Occupy and Vietnam but couldn't come up with a single day's events. I thought of the night when Harvey Milk was killed. I thought of Stonewall. But she wanted something about war. I thought of the night George Bush bombed Iraq.

From My Heart is in the East:
I remember a desperate protest the night before George W. Bush gave the order to bomb Baghdad. On the Los Angeles streets with my children waving signs at traffic - hoping to bring some last minute sense to the power machine in Washington, cars honking at us, patriots spitting. At approximately 5:30 am Iraqi time the bombs begin to fall. We watch them exploding on television- small bursts of green light.  

But that certainly wasn't a universal protest. Any ideas? I'd love to bring her to the States- we need such a stirring and self critical theatre event.


Jewish Quarter #1

Jessica Litwak

I made my way this Shabbat morning to the Jewish Quarter in Prague. Although I visited these sites 17 years ago, I wanted to return today as so much of my work lately has been concentrated on historical Jewry.
There are manyJewish legends that are particular to Prague, including the Golem, a man made of clay who was built to protect the Ancient Jews of Prague from Anti- Semitism.
Jewish merchants settled here in the 10th century.
Twice in 1541 and 1744 Jews were expelled from the country, but they continued to return and to build a vibrant community here.
Although most of the Jewish population was murderedby the Nazis, much of the architecture was persevered. Because it is Shabbat the museums and tours are closed.
 I will come back another today and go the the museum and the cemetrary speak more about the stories and the place.
Today I got into a scuffle. I had an argument with a Tour Guide from somewhere in Europe who was leading one of the many groups of tourists around Prague and speaking broken English.
He made some very rude cracks first he said he could see that their eyes were glassed over because the Jewish history was a bit boring so he would go fast through this section. Then he said if they are lucky they might get to see some real Jews in action maybe even a Bar Mitzvah, then he started to tell some kind of Jewish joke, I was just passing by but I said clearly to him, "Be careful." "Be careful about what - you think there are some Israelis on my tour? There aren't"  He began to tell the Jewish joke again, and knowing full well that I should walk away I opened my moth again. "Are you Jewish?" I asked him. "No, of course not. But I could be Jewish any minute if I wanted to be. Anybody can be Jewish." I walked away. Then he shouted after me " YOU MUST BE FROM NEW YORK!"
I wasn't sure if he meant because I was obviously Jewish, or because I was obviously rude enough to interrupt his tour with my intrusive remarks.
Either way, of course he was right and they whole event upset me.
For those who know me you know that I work constantly on this paradox of being Jewish, of disagreeing with Israeli policies, of loving the Arab world, and loving many Muslims as well as Christians and Buddhists. But this is the land of my grandparents and I am particularly sensitive to the off hand remarks of a careless tour guide.
I should have kept my mouth shut. But that's a lesson I have been trying to learn all my life.

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Home Visit Europe

Jessica Litwak

Went to a performance by Rimini Protokoll in a private apartment in residential section of Prague. Fifteen people became part of a joint play in a living room that interwove personal stories and the political mechanisms of Europe. The performance was driven by a machine, an MC with an iPad a handdrawn map of the world,  and several other gadgets that moved the action. It was a fascinating form of immersive theatre that created a lively community of compatriots out of a group of International strangers. 

 

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Lost and Found

Jessica Litwak

I was on the wrong train crawling through the Czech countryside -  going the long way from Brno to Prague because my lack of Czech language and the misunderstandings about tracks from well-meaning woman and I wastrying to forgive myself for being a dopey foreigner, hoping I didn't miss the opening of the Akcent festival. Hurdling through the dark in a country I don't know. And then the train stopped and we all had to get off in between two small stops in a field in the middle of somewhere but with nothing I could see or recognize and the people who were left on the train all wandered off into the field or down a country road and I stood by a small light and waited and sent a facebook message on my phone and all the theatre folks thousands of miles away sent messages and suggestions. And the angels prevailed and I got back to rainy Prague carrying three bags and a small withered bouquet of roses one of my students had given me.

In Prague I got to the theatre to see this wonderful German production which was simultaneously translated into Czech and English. The play was interactive, the entire audience engaged in the imagining and building the "pre-enactment" of a future Europe - using all of the issues Europe faces today. The audience was divided into countries. At one point we lost Portugal, Spain, and England. At another point we had to merge countries and rename them. Some people had to move to go "work" in other countries. Sometime countries (like France) were on fire. We had cards to vote and also to spend money on various initiates. Then there were public opinion polls and an open microphone for public civic discussion. This was socially engaged theatre in it's purest form. I was so grateful that the theatre angels got me back to Prague in time.



Brno

Jessica Litwak

I taught two full days and gave a lectureand I had a wonderful time with my students.

The workshop was a mixture of practice and theory most of the students spoke English but since there was no translator we collaborated to find a common language.

The lecture was translated by my wonderful colleague Barbora Doležalová who bravely negotiated 90 minutes of lecture and dialogue regarding theatre as a vehicle for personal and social change.

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After the first day of workshop and lecture Iwas wined and dined by my colleagues last night who showed me the strange sculptures and lovely cafes in Brno - fabulous discussions about art and life and politics and theatre for social justice.

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Apparently the Mayor of Brno wanted a big sculpture of a man on a horse to grace the central square (because as my colleague said "there is a big sculpture of a man on a horse in Prague and he wanted an even bigger one". So he had many sculptors apply with designs and rejected them all for being too abstract and finally chose this one.

 

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But then we noticed that everyone was going underneath the stature and looking up at the head of the horse. And we found a strange (and not accidental) message from the sculptor to the mayor

 

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A tribute to the anniversary of the Velvet Revolution

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And a message for France.

Brno.

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This is where a Jewish family once lived in Brno before WWII

This is where a Jewish family once lived in Brno before WWII

The Plum Yard

Jessica Litwak

Today in Southern Bohemia I met these wonderful people who live communally and make beautiful theatre together - they built this gorgeous space in the middle of farmland - they are living and working my dream and have inspired me to keep dreaming. 

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Candy

Jessica Litwak

Selling this for dessert from mini market across the street- tastes weird... I am very sleepy 

 

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Looking forward to the AKCENT THEATRE FESTIVAL

Jessica Litwak

This festival promises to be very exciting. The practitioners involved in AKCENT are international artists working to make "useful" theatre - the fifth annual festival is "an inspiring look at the various forms of stage art focusing on today's most pressing issues"

Prague Day One

Jessica Litwak

This city is beautiful. I am too jet-lagged to find better adjectives. It is romantic and ancient and has a sense of humor. And thousands of tourists. But it is one of those cites that entertains, each cobbled street opens to a hidden square with bistros and street performances - a Swedish magician juggling knives, a craggy male jazz band with a ten year old ballerina in sneakers, a disco bubble queen, and moonlit bridges with statues and people kissing...I was here about 17 years ago when my play The Promised Land was being done here and in Budapest. Not that much seems changed, except for the selfie sticks and the Segways. and this drink:

I had this instead: